Caldercraft's 1:72 Scale HMS Victory

Hiya Jay!

Yes, that's right mate, this enables the planks to be the same thickness as the stern post when finished, that's why you have to repeat the process before adding the second layer of planks.



Good Luck with your build mate, and don't worry about asking questions, I will be doing the same lol

@Samson - A huge thanks for the kind comments mate, I really appreciate it!

Captain Barbossa wrote:Hiya Jay!

Yes, that's right mate, this enables the planks to be the same thickness as the stern post when finished, that's why you have to repeat the process before adding the second layer of planks.



Good Luck with your build mate, and don't worry about asking questions, I will be doing the same lol

@Samson - A huge thanks for the kind comments mate, I really appreciate it!

Hey mate, thanks very much for the help here and over on Mikes thread.

I guess it is best to ask rather then risk mucking up an expensive kit like this.

Cheers again mate.

Jay

Looking great, very impressed with your work so far

Your planking is so much tighter looking than mine, using pins and working slow has it's benefits unlike me, rush rush and get paint on quick lol

Giving me the urge to sand it all down and filling the gaps in, and choosing a less bright yellow for the bands.

Have fun, especially with the Copper Plates.

Andy

Hello Captain,

Sub Lt. Aldo reporting for duty
You've done an amazing job on your CC Victory David, it's amazing to see so many builds of this beautiful ship in one site I hope to build this ship one day and I'll be following your log closely

Capt. Pugwash wrote:Looking great, very impressed with your work so far

Your planking is so much tighter looking than mine, using pins and working slow has it's benefits unlike me, rush rush and get paint on quick lol

Giving me the urge to sand it all down and filling the gaps in, and choosing a less bright yellow for the bands.

Have fun, especially with the Copper Plates.

Andy

A huge thanks fot the kind words mate, sorry about not replying sooner.

rdsaplala wrote:Hello Captain,

Sub Lt. Aldo reporting for duty
You've done an amazing job on your CC Victory David, it's amazing to see so many builds of this beautiful ship in one site I hope to build this ship one day and I'll be following your log closely

Hello there Sub Lt Aldo, thanks for taking the time to look at my build and leave such a kind compliment, most appreciated.

Here are some long overdue pictures of my build so far! I now have a working camera after some really desperate begging to the wife

I am showing my pictures before and after sanding, I feel this is needed as some builders like to show you images of their finished work, I don't think this is helpful to any new to the hobby modelers, as they see their rough work, thinking that they have failed and cannot achieve a great finish.
I am no expert, and I do not claim to be, but I am happy with what I achieve, and so should you! Do not let anyone make you think or feel otherwise, but always seek to improve, and always be welcome to helpful and constructive advice NOT CRITASISM!

This picture shows me using masking tape to achieve the correct angle of the cut needed to make a neat joint at the bow of the ship.



Once the masking tape has been pressed into place, I cut off what's not required, then attach the resulting tape to a plank, then using a sharp craft knife, I cut off the excess following the line of the tape, this method has always worked for me, I trust it more than trying to cut by eye



I start planking down the hull until I get about half way, thats when I usually start to install the Garboard plank, I have in the past made the mistake of trying to plank all the way down to the keel, and have always ended up trying to fit a multi-shaped piece of timber followed by numerous swear words and scrap wood!





Hey I am almost finished the second planking! Phew!!! and the ship is still in one piece! so far





Woohoooo, I am done, all that is needed now is a final sanding to achieve a smooth finish and shape.



Images of the sanded finish will be uploaded as soon as I clean up

HI cap
fantastik looking job you hawe don ther . and i can imaging your iger to finis it of with sanding and oil/warnis ? it wil sur com to look beutiful for chure . cant wait to see the resoltc.

Hiya David, it's really nice to see a long awaited update on your Victory, I was wondering how you were getting on.

Super tip with regards to the masking tape, I think I may have to try that myself.

Good to see you back mate, looking really good.

Jay

Awww thanks guys! your too kind

Samson I am going to use the included copper plates to cover the hull to the waterline, however! I have never tried this before, so it's a bit daunting, but I feel if I don't try it, I will never improve or advance in my modeling.

Jay It's great to be back mate, I have been looking over your build and others and I find them incredibly inspirational, so all in all, I missed you guys and the site!

Hi David

I bet you are pleased you have finished that second planking. It looks a really neat job and now on with the copper plating!!

I noticed you asking about the type of glue to use for that. I'm beginning to worry about superglue, I had a real bad chest just before Christmas when I was using superglue as part of my planking work. I think I have read somewhere about using a contact adhesive, something like Bostik. Do you think that would be better?

Have you decided whether to overlap the plates to achieve authenticity or are you going to stick to laying them adjacent as most modellers seem to do? Also are you going to copper plate before you do the upper deck and planking as suggested in the manual?

BTW your tip using masking tape to get a neat plank end is ace! I must start using it as I plank on ... and on ... and on!!!

Mike T

Hiya Mike! Thanks for the kind comments.

I am glad the main part of the second planking is finished, but I did enjoy doing it. As for the adhesive for the copper tiles, I have been doing some searching about and there seems to be a balance of people who like the tiles and those who don't, most of the people I have spoken to or read about didn't like the tiles due to the time consuming task and adhesive problems associated with them, but most of the people who had problems have in one way or another sealed the hull before attaching the plates, could this be the problem? the glue not bonding correctly with a paint or varnished finish?

I have a sample pack of copper tiles at my disposal so I am going to try a couple of methods.
1 Cyanoacrylate,
2, Contact Adhesive,
3, Double sided grip tape.

I know you can use the alternative self adhesive copper tape and I know it can if done correctly look as good, but in my opinion, there is nothing like the real thing and the plates that come with the kit are outstandingly manufactured (Jotika did a great job) so I hope (and pray) to complete the lower hull with the copper tiles supplied.

As for maintaining a realistic and true to form authenticity, ie overlapping the tiles etc, is something I won't be doing, this would be in my opinion a task that I just don't feel upto, especially with these copper tiles, if I was using the tape method, I would probably have a go, but I said it the day I started this model, I am not building it true to form like the original would have been built, I am building it because I love the ship, I love the way it looks and the history behind it, but I don't see a need to build it like the original ship-writes would have, but thats just my opinion and I fully respect anyone who does achieve that!
I think Jotika have created a masterpiece and I will be sticking to their guide, with only very small adaptations.

I build ships because I like the way they look, I build them for my own satisfaction and my only goal is improve myself and my building skills.

all the best
David

Just a couple of pics to update my build.

I have now cut out the lower deck main mast sleeves, there are two pieces which need to be glued together, my only advice is you do this with a gentle hand as they can break easily on the grain, so to help make them stronger, I glued them together whiles crossing the grain.






Once dry, I filed the inner of the pieces enough to allow the main mast to pass through without any resistance. I also sanded the outer of the sleeve ready for a couple of coats of Matt varnish.





Once I was happy with the sleeve, I dry fitted it to the deck and made sure the mast would pass through unobstructed and at the correct angle.



I know this is not ralated to the part I am working on but it's a great tip so thought I would include it in the build diary.

When cutting out the gun ports, the timber used can sometimes feather then splinter and break, if this happens it can be a task to get a nice finish without using filler, so what I do, I spread a small amount of medium or thin super glue (Cyanoacrylate) over the area to be cut, this helps to stop the edges feathering or splitting.

Without glue



With glue

I am still currently working on the upper gun deck, here are some of the images.

Here I have fitted and glued into position the upper gun deck camber beams, I had to check the plans 3 times to make sure I had them in the correct locations, YES thats how forgetful I am getting



Time to fit the upper gun deck, this 0.8mm ply piece only required a small trim to get it fitting nice and snug thanks to the quality of workmanship from the guys at Jotika.



I did have to sand down the inner bulwarks to get them aligned correctly.



I cut all the planks to size as recommended by the guys at Jotika, each plank was cut to 85mm, I achieved a continuous plank length by clamping a scrap pice of timber to my building board, then clamping my cutting box at the correct plank length, a simple solution for a simple mind

I used the 4 butt shift system to lay the planks after marking one side of each plank with a pencil, it can be a bit messy (especially if your me and have hands that just don't do what they are told) I could have cleaned up with a damp cloth as I went, but I don't like doing this as a damp or wet plank could swell up and become a pain in the rear end when it starts to shrink, this would have left gaps all over the place, so I decided to adopt the "I will sand it down when I have finished" method, it's worked for me in the past.



Planks have dried and have now received their first sanding.







I have now applied a coat of Matt Varnish and I am pleased with the results. (Ronseal Diamond Hard Varnish-CLEAR)

That's really coming on a treat David! Your upper gun deck is looking the works and the planking is just excellent.

I'm caught between the Devil and The Deep Blue Sea to use a maritime saying! I want to get back to the second planking on Victory but at the moment I can't seem to put Halifax down, now I am working through the rigging. Should be doing both I suppose, but time is still at a premium. Off to the Supermarket next!*****

Mike T

Hiya Mike mate!

Thanks for the kind comments I am a bit stuck right now, no not to my model, not sure if I should add tree nails to the decking or leave as is, I been looking at some pictures of the real deck on HMS Victory at Portsmouth and to be honest, the tree nails don't exactly stand out! so would you really see them at this scale, personally I don't think you would, but apart of me is saying "go on! you know you want too" decisions decisions?